Ancient monuments may draw the crowds but nights out in lively tavernas and bars, sipping ouzo with meze, make for a memorable trip.

Best bars

 

 

 

 

 

Brettos — A Plaka district landmark, this delightful bar and distillery (the oldest in Athens) has a stunning backlit wall of colourful bottles and old wine barrels, and an old-fashioned character. It’s a quiet spot for a nightcap with a tempting range of homemade wine, ouzo, brandy and other spirits (brettosplaka.com; ­Kydathineon 41; 10am-3am daily; bottle of ouzo from $15).

Barley Cargo — This ­fantastic bar offers more than 150 different beers, many of them from Greek microbreweries, others from around the world, including Belgium, ­Germany, the UK and US. Sip a Trappist ale at one of the wooden-barrel tables or as part of the crowd spilling out on to the street; it’s conveniently located in the heart of Syntagma’s bar-heavy area (facebook.com/BarleyCargo; Kolokotroni 6; 11am-3am Mon-Sat, 7pm-3am Sun; beers from $3).

Nixon Bar — More suave than most local establishments in the district of Keramikos, Nixon Bar plays host to film showings and premieres in its 60-seater cinema, plus live music and evening shows. A young, culture-hungry crowd lounges in the dimly lit bar, complete with marble floor and impressive chandelier, and make the most of the decent burgers and mean martinis on offer (nixon.gr; Agisilaou 61b; 8pm-3am Mon-Sat, 1pm-3am Sun; beers from $5).

Best tavernas

Cafe Avissinia — Hidden away on colourful Plateia Avyssinias, in the middle of the flea market in Monastiraki, this bohemian taverna specialises in regional Greek cuisine, from moussaka to warm fava, and has a great ­selection of spirits. There is often acoustic live music too. Snag fantastic Acropolis views upstairs (avissinia.gr; Kynetou 7; 11am-1am Tue-Sat, until 7pm Sun; mains from $11).

Kanella — Homemade village-style bread, mismatched retro crockery and brown-paper tablecloths set the tone for this modern taverna in the Gazi neighbourhood serving regional Greek cuisine. Friendly staff serve specials such as lemon and oregano lamb with potatoes, and a tasty zucchini and avocado salad (kanellagazi.gr; Leoforos Konstantinoupoleos 70; 1.30pm-late; mains from $11).

Paradosiako — For great traditional dishes, you can’t beat this inconspicuous, no-frills taverna on the periphery of historic Plaka neighbourhood, with a few tables on the pavement. There’s a basic menu, but it’s best to choose from the daily specials, which include fresh seafood, such as prawn saganaki. It fills up quickly with locals, so arrive early to get a table (Voulis 44a; from 10am daily; mains from $15).

Best mezedhes

Tzitzikas & Mermigas — This bright, cheery, modern mezedhopoleio (place serving meze) sits smack in the middle of central Athens. It’s particularly popular for its delicious and creative mezedhes, such as the manouri cheese wrapped in ham and drizzled with honey (Mitropoleos 12-14, Syntagma; open for lunch and dinner, closed Sun; mezedhes from $9).

Filistron — It’s wise to book a table on the rooftop terrace of this excellent Thisio mezedhopoleio, which enjoys excellent views of the Acropolis and Lykavittos. Specialising in regional cuisine, it has a great range of mezedhes. Try the grilled vegetables with haloumi or the onions stuffed with rice and mince (filistron.com; Apostolou Pavlou 23; 12pm-12am weekdays, until 1am weekends; mezes from $11).

Yiantes — This modern eatery, with its plain tables and freshly cut flowers set in a lovely garden courtyard, is an up-market establishment in Exarhia, near the centre of Athens, and the food is superb and made with largely organic produce. Try dishes such as courgette croquettes, baby eel with chilli oil, calamari and stuffed vine leaves (yiantes.gr; Valtetsiou 44; mains from $13).

Eat like a local

Greek eateries like to specialise; you’ll find tavernas that only do pork or dedicated pita stores or souvlaki hole-in-the-walls. The taverna has many specialist variations: a psarotaverna specialises in fish and seafood, a psistaria or hasapotaverna in chargrilled or spit-roasted meat.

Greeks like to eat late, so restaurants don’t fill up until after 10pm. Lunch is still the big meal of the day, and does not start until after 2pm. Greeks are generous and proud hosts.

Try not to refuse a drink; it’s a gesture of hospitality.

Further Reading: Lonely Planet’s Pocket Athens is ideal for short breaks to the city, while Greece has a chapter on Athens, which is available to download at lonelyplanet.com. See visitgreece.gr for details on upcoming local events.

 

GO2 – ATHENS

Getting there

Half-hourly blue-line metro trains run between the city centre and airport (5.30am-11.30pm; £6.50), and the bus service X95 connects the airport to Syntagma 24 hours (every 30 mins; journey time about 1 hr; $7). Athens has an inexpensive integrated public transport network of buses, metro, trolleybuses and a tram Metro tickets cost $2 and are valid for 90 minutes on all modes of transport.

oasa.gr

Staying there

Cecil Hotel is a charming old hotel in a Neoclassical building on busy Athinas, with beautiful moulded ceilings, timber floors and an original cage-style lift. The simple rooms are tastefully furnished; 39 Athinas St; from $72.

cecilhotel.gr

With views over the Temple of Olympian Zeus, the refurbished Athens Gate hotel is a great find. Rooms are well equipped, staff are friendly and breakfast is served on the rooftop terrace 10 Syngrou Avenue; from $115).

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Hotel Grande Bretagne ranks among the grandest hotels of the world. Though its renovation is a few years distant, it still retains an old-world grandeur. The rooftop restaurant and bar are must visits Syntagma Square; from $340).

grandebretagne.gr